A few notes: The original has an elongated hole on the bottom, not sure why, but it’s easier to just put a regular hole in. The only really important thing is the spacing between the two holes and their size, it doesn’t matter too much if you just get the outside shape to a rough approximation depending on what tools you may have available. I used a piece of 1\/4″ thick aluminum, but you can use whatever you want as long as it is rigid and flat enough to seal. I added in rough countersink sizes if you want a nice clean look using flathead screws, but it’s quick and easy to use the existing studs and nuts and skip that step (this is what I have done temporarily until I get around to getting some flatheads.) Also, when deleting the EGR, you can either buy or build a simulator (diagram is below and can be found with some searching, however I have not yet tested it) to prevent ECU codes.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.fiveocd.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/5Legr.jpg\" "\\"5.0")
<\/a>5.0 EGR delete plate<\/p><\/div>\n
<\/a>EGR simulator<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
When I decided to make an EGR delete plate for the Mustang’s 306 build (more on that to follow,) I didn’t have my EGR valve handy, so I did some searching online for dimensions, figuring it had been done a … Continue reading